Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton
Angus Davies critiques the Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton ref. 2785-SC5-20001, an open-worked timepiece that features a distinguished stability bridge on the dial-side of the movement.
This detailed consider of the Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton incorporates dwell photos, specification particulars and pricing.
Numerous years up to now, a manner of fear pervaded the Swiss watch enterprise. At the time, ETA, a subsidiary of Swatch Group, offered actions to the overwhelming majority of watch companies. Swatch Group intimated that gives of ETA actions would develop to be increasingly restricted and can even cease altogether.
The actions of Swatch Group had been understandable, that they had been investing essential sums in ETA, solely to see competing watch producers have the benefit of their keenly-priced actions. These watch producers weren’t contributing to the value of study and development themselves, thereby having enjoyable with a aggressive profit consequently.
Based on the fear of supplies drying up, a variety of companies turned a Manufacture, changing into a member of the elite group of producers which have historically made their very personal actions. While just a few of those new manufacture actions had been very spectacular, fairly just a few early examples had been acknowledged to have reliability factors.
More pertinently, one different regrettable consequence of a variety of companies launching their very personal Manufacture actions was a rise in retail prices. Indeed, some watch companies, having incurred considerable evaluation and development costs, sought to get higher this expenditure in a single day.
While I like these vertically built-in companies which make their very personal actions, I can understand why some producers chosen to be an ‘Etablisseur’. This time interval is used to clarify a watch agency who purchases an ébauche together with additional parts to make a complete movement.
An ébauche is printed by the Fondation Haute Horlogerie as an ‘incomplete movement, with or with out stones, devoid of the regulating organ, the mainspring, the dial and the arms’.
Today, an rising number of specialists provide mechanical watch actions. In actuality there are sufficient supplies to satisfy the needs of all watch companies and there is a lot much less have to be a Manufacture or an Etablisseur.
A third means
Several watch companies have chosen to dedicate their sources into design, procurement, top quality administration and distribution. Movements, dials, cases and straps are procured from specialist firms and supreme assembly and regulation is then delegated to completely different companies which possess the necessary watchmaking expertise.
This latter technique may appear alien to those horophiles who’ve always believed that Manufacture is most interesting, nonetheless, even just a few of essentially the most prestigious maisons draw on the expertise of third occasions.
Car producers will purchase gearboxes from ZF, buy brakes from Brembo and purchase seats from Lear. These components are made to each vehicle agency’s specification nonetheless delegated to specialist producers capable of delivering the most effective of every worlds, high quality and keen pricing. Likewise, the cellphone enterprise outsources the manufacturing of parts and supreme assembly to third occasions, deciding on to cope with design, procurement, top quality and plenty of others. So, why should watches be any fully completely different?
My extended preamble leads me to the door of Genevan watch mannequin, Raymond Weil. This eponymously named Swiss agency was based mostly in 1976. Today, Elie Bernheim, the CEO of Raymond Weil, deftly manages the mannequin his grandfather established. The horological company openly collaborates with movement specialist, Sellita, procuring Swiss calibres which meet its private explicit requirements. It moreover attracts upon the expertise synonymous with Swiss watchmaking.
Raymond Weil is synonymous with selling high quality, Swiss made watches at moderately priced prices. Furthermore, the price for money proffered by this agency’s timepieces does not come on the expense of reliability, precision or tactile actually really feel. Indeed, these attributes are rigorously upheld and the company’s exacting high quality management are stringently met.
Earlier this 12 months, the Swiss mannequin unveiled a model new watch, the Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton, equipped with an open-worked movement produced in collaboration with Sellita.
Recently, I was granted the prospect to appraise the Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton first hand and critique its composition.
An open-worked dial is commonly the shield of so much costlier timepieces. The modest asking price of £2,195 (RRP as at 25.7.2018) immediately differentiates the Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton from its rivals.
Similar to completely different open-worked watches, this timepiece confers an unbelievable view of various components, normally hidden from view. The barrel cowl has been pared-back, allowing sight of the mainspring in a number of states of strain. At the fulcrum of the dial, the hour wheel is seen with the minute wheel positioned adjoining.
My favourite view is the sight of the steadiness wheel located above 6 o’clock. A slender stability bridge, that features a two-spoke design, confers sight of the hairspring, pallet lever and escape wheel. This design grants a mesmerising imaginative and prescient of the steadiness wheel oscillating backwards and forwards, the hairspring respiration and the pallet lever nodding. There are few views which could surpass the hypnotic spectacle of this horological vista.
Clearly, the goal of any timepiece is to level the time. This may appear obvious, nonetheless it is beautiful what variety of open-worked dials present troublesome to study. The dial of the Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton succinctly imparts the time. The golden-hued arms and matching indexes facilitate ease of read-off. Furthermore, the black hour monitor, white minuterie and the luminescent treatment on the arms and indexes all improve legibility.
Another facet of the Calibre RW1212 which I uncover endearing is the thrives of perlage on the spoke-like sections of the mainplate.
The metallic case is endowed with rose gold PVD coating. Ordinarily, I’d favour mixing metallic with actual noble metallic, nonetheless, I accept this would possibly radically affect on the final word selling price, alienating quite a few would-be patrons. In this case, the equipment of PVD coating imbues the watch with an agreeably warmth look.
While this timepiece could also be very moderately priced, it choices some nice touches. The lugs embrace a multi-faceted design and charmingly toy with ambient light. The rose gold PVD coated crown, features a neatly executed grip with a assist depiction of the mannequin’s model on its vertical flank. The brown calf leather-based strap is paired with a stainless steel folding clasp with double push-security system. In this latter case, a pin buckle would have sufficed, nonetheless it is clear Raymond Weil have strived to transcend the perfunctory.
Open-worked watches are geared towards horological voyeurs. It is because of this truth changing into that this timepiece moreover choices an exhibition case-back, affording a consider of the self-winding movement inside.
The Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton measures 42mm in diameter, with a case thickness of 10.6mm. These dimensions ought to point out universally fascinating.
The Calibre RW1212 has a frequency of 28,800 VpH (4Hz), accommodates 27 jewels and has an affect reserve of 38 hours.
The oscillating weight is skeletonised, facilitating views of the parts beneath, whereas the mainplate and bridges are embellished with perlage, reinforcing the notion of top of the range.
The Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton is a horny watch. The slender spokes of the steadiness wheel, the sinuous curves of the mainplate and the disclosure of fairly just a few wheels proves an alluring spectacle. However, whatever the complexity of the dialscape, the indications present simple to study, underscoring the practicality of the watch.
The case has a handsome mien. The use of rose gold PVD coating enlivens the seems to be of the watch. Personally, I found the detailing on the lugs very attractive and I was impressed with the usual of the chrome steel folding clasp.
Ultimately, I’ve to return to the Calibre RW1212. It is embellished with perlage, in fact, the spherical grained decoration abounds, gloriously adorning the bridges and mainplate. The open-worked oscillating weight reinforces the open-worked character of the watch.
As the Calibre RW1212 illustrates, there’s so much information in watch companies collaborating with third occasions. By cleverly sourcing top quality components, Raymond Weil has created a robust timepiece that represents unbelievable price.
- Model: Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton
- Case: Stainless metallic with rose gold PVD coating; diameter 42mm, peak 10.6mm; sapphire crystal to entrance and caseback; waterproof to 10 ATM (100 metres).
- Functions: Hours; minutes
- Movement: Calibre RW1212; Self-winding movement; frequency 28,800 VpH (4Hz); 27 jewels; power reserve 38 hours.
- Strap: Brown calf leather-based strap with stainless-steel folding clasp
- Price: £2195 (RRP as at 25.7.2018)